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Cemetery Mirogoj

An Open Air Museum

If it’s true that a country’s history is contained in its museums and cemeteries, then Cemetery Mirogoj is a lovely setting in which to tell the history of Zagreb, Croatia.

Mirogoj, in fact, has been called an outdoor museum.  With an eclectic mix that includes a neo-Renaissance arcade, towering cupolas, decorative gravestones of varying sizes, shapes and colors, religious symbols and statues from the Jewish, Muslim, Latter Day Saints religions and all major Christian denominations that easily qualify as works of art, statues of Croatia’s famous military, political, literary, science, and sports heroes, and other significant works of art from some of Croatia’s most famous sculptures and architects, all set in a quiet, peaceful environment, I agree that the cemetery easily lives up its reputation as an outdoor museum.  And with the 300,000 bodies interred at the cemetery, each with its own story, Mirogoj serves as an archive of the history of Zagreb’s residents across all religions and social strata.   

The cemetery is surrounded by a brick wall that is approximately 9 meters high (30 feet).  This brick perimeter blocks out the noises of the street and surrounding neighborhood and provides an oasis of repose and contemplation often experienced in a museum but expected in a cemetery.

Entry into the cemetery on the western side is through the ivy covered arches or by climbing a short set of steps at the main entrance.  The steps led to one of several cupolas along the Mirogoj arcades which run along either side of the main entrance and display some of Croatia's best late 19th century sculptures.

Immediately, my attention was drawn to the muted earthtoned frescos painted on the ceiling of the cupola and then to the graceful arches of the Mirogoj arcades painted in the same soothing colors.   The wall is adorned with splindly cast-iron lanterns. 

From the slightly elevated platform under the cupola, I followed the long, paved path of the arcade along the west side with a wall of crypts on one side and and stone columns on the other.  To my left are tall, shady trees in a  park-like setting on the other.  As I walked along the arcade, I passed plaques and colorful granite that face many of the crypts.  Inscribed on the plaques are family or obitelj names that span more than a century.  

After leaving the arcade, I followed one of several paved pathways that dissect the gravesites.  Conveniently situated along the pathways are benches for quiet reflection and meditation.   As I walked through the cemetery, I marveled at the number and variety of religious statues that stand near the gravesites.  Headstones of infinite designs guard the final resting place of Zagreb’s citizens and tell a brief history of the deceased.  In addition to birth and death dates, the headstones included vintage photographs, Masonic symbols and inscriptions in Cyrillic and Latin alphabets.   Green moss had found a home on the old stones covering some gravesites while fresh flowers or candles graced other sites.  The pathways are lined with tall, shady maple, spruce and wild chestnut trees whose branches cast a wide canopy over the cemetery and creates a soothing environment of dappled sunshine and light shade.

In addition to individual and family gravesites, the cemetery includes a monument which memorializes the Fallen Croatian Soldiers in World War One, the somber grey granite “Wall of Pain” monument inscribed with the names of the 13,650 victims of the Croatian War of Independence, along with several other monuments. 

One of those monuments, prominently positioned just behind the chapel building, is the shiny black granite gravestone of President Franjo Tudjman, the first president of Croatia.  After his election, President Tudjman helped the country move away from socialism and towards democracy.  For this role in winning his country’s independence, he is sometimes given the title “father of the country”.

The 70 hectare (about 173 acres) Cemetery Mirogoj is built on property previously owned by Ljudevit Gaj, a leader of the Croatian national revival, and on land later acquired on the northern side of the cemetery for expansion to accommodate demand for new gravesites.  Its basic layout of arcades, pavilions, domes, paved treelined avenues, and gallery of sculptures was designed by Hermann Bollé.  The cemetery officially opened on 11 June 1876 and, on 11 July 1978, received it first deceased - the remains of Mr. Friedrich Singer, a professor of gymnastics and fencing. 

Mirogoj was conceived as a central cemetery when the city began running out of space in its then existing eight church owned graveyards.  As a public cemetery owned by the city, space is shared by all religions according to its number of followers and each with the same rights and obligations.  After the old cemeteries were closed, the remains of some notable citizens along with their gravestones were posthumously transferred from the old cemeteries to Mirogoj.

Shortly after the cemetery was opened in 1876, Hermann Bollé, a descendent of a family of German architects and a long time resident of Croatia, began construction of the southern and northern portals, arcades and chapel and labored for the next 50 years to complete them. Bollé’s architectural influence can be seen throughout Zagreb.  He died in 1926 before realizing his great vision.  The project was completed in 1929 by one of his close associates.

Within a few decades, the cemetery began a period of financial difficulty during the pre-war year that resulted in abandoned tombs, water damage to the interior walls of the arcade, deterioration of the pathways and overgrowth of the parkland.  In the late 1960s, a four year period of reconstruction restored cupolas, arcades, pathways and parkland to their present state, roads, water supplies and sewer systems were reconstructed, abandoned tombs were reclaimed, and some remains moved to common graves.   

Today, the cemetery has its own professional musicians and kiosks where visitors can buy flowers and candles.  Construction stonemason groups use their skills and equipment to continue making a variety of monuments from all kinds of materials that complement Hermann Bollé’s original structure.

Cemetery Mirogoj is considered to be one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe.  With Bollé’s thoughtful creation, it is a noteworthy landmark for the city of Zagreb and final resting place for its citizens.

If you go

Cemetery Mirogoj is located in the Gornji Grad- Medveščak city district on Mirogojska Road and Hermann Bollé Street.

Cemetery Hours

6:00 AM – 8:00 PM from April 1 – September 30

7:30 AM – 6:00 PM from October 1 – March 31